Monday, October 31, 2011

Such Joy

As always, I'm not sure where to begin. It truly is hard to convey how much I am enjoying life at the moment. I've met some incredible friends from all over the world, I'm having so much fun learning and trying to speak Khmer, I'm loving my work environment and my coworkers, and I'm enjoying eating all sorts of different types of food (especially when I eat at a little stand in the middle of the local market and pay 2, 000 Riel or 50 cents in US currency. How could I complain about anything?

One thing that brings me such joy is the comments and "compliments" I get being a Westerner living here. Here are some examples that I'll let you try to interpret:
"Oh, you look less fat!"
"Are you tired? You look like panda (as he's pointing to his eyes)."
"Oh today you look more fat, maybe you have baby?"
"Oh today you look special pretty"..this is coming after a conversation about how women get mad when he looks surprised and tells them they look pretty because they interpret it as though he thinks they look ugly all other days...feels like the States when he says stuff like that.
"Oh, you're so white!"

I love hearing things like this - it is never meant as an insult, but rather as a compliment. It's always entertaining and really challenges my immediate defenses that typically go up when someone says stuff like that to me. I've been socialized to understand comments like "you're so white" to be an insult, especially growing up in Southern California where tan skin=beauty; however, in Cambodia it's the complete opposite- being white is beautiful and signifies power and wealth. As much as it is flattering, it becomes quite difficult when every day (not exaggerating) I'm told I'm beautiful because my skin is white and that I'm more beautiful than Cambodians because I have white skin. If that's not a symbol of the perceived power dynamics between Cambodians and Westerners, I don't know what is. It actually bothers me more and more every day because it's clear that Western influence is present in a way that is creating a culture and perception that being Western is better than being Cambodian. This isn't to say that Western presence or influence doesn't have any positive impact, but it disgusts me that it's produced a concept that a human being can be prettier, more powerful, or better than another human being (especially when the variable causing that perception is simply where someone was born). 

Anyways, this was supposed to be a joyful post!! The other joys from really settling into this country...

The moto driver who takes me around actually laughs, smiles, and talks with me now! The first two weeks, we never said anything to one another, other than me telling him where I needed to go, and now there is laughter every time he drives me somewhere. Most of the time we're laughing AT me and my attempts at speaking Khmer. Either that or I laugh because I'll say one phrase in Khmer and then he will just blab away as though I know what he's saying. "Knom at yol" (I don't understand) I have to say. I love it.

I walk down the street I used to live on and all of the moto and tuk tuk drivers who post up there will shout out "hello Bri!" Or, for example, the other day I needed a moto home because I didn't want to walk alone at night, so I took another guy I knew (because my moto driver was gone) and as it turned out, he already knew exactly where I live now even though he's never driven me to my new apartment. While it seems creepy, it's actually quite entertaining seeing that even people in Cambodia gossip! They're all good people though, and are honestly protective of me and my friends because they know us. It's awesome. 

There are so many things I love about this place and the things I've just mentioned are only a few examples, but I think you get the picture! Just know, I'm so happy and I laugh every day...again, mostly at myself, but laughter is laughter and I love it all. 

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Settling into Life in Cambodia

Six short weeks ago I arrived in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It continues to amaze me every day that I'm actually living and working here, and that as much time has already gone by. There are no words to explain what my life is like, or how much I am enjoying being here, but again, here is my attempt at shedding some light on my experiences.

Hypochondriac or what?!
So I have to admit that ever since I've arrived in Cambodia, I'm pretty sure I've turned into a hypochondriac. Now, let's be real people, I know I'm not, BUT, please explain to me why I've been to the doctor 3 times in less than 2 weeks. First time (maybe about 2 weeks into my time here) I went because I had about 20 some bites on my legs that proceeded to get EXTREMELY irritated, red, swollen, and then the best part, blistered. Gross, right?! You don't have to tell me - I was the one who had to live with it. Anyways, you could be pretty confident that they were mosquito bites, but I was convinced that there might be something wrong because I had NEVER seen a reaction like that to a bug bite...well at least not on me. Literally, my legs felt like they were on fire! And yes, I did take some pictures, but I'm going to spare you all. Anyways, I decided that I just HAD to go to the doctor to make sure I didn't have some crazy disease or something.

Then, a couple days later I noticed my throat was a bit sore (which went away after an hour or so) and that my right gland was really swollen. That's happened to me a million times, but because I had no other symptoms of a cold, sickness, or anything, I decided that again, something might be seriously wrong. So literally 3 days later, I went to the doctor again. Turns out I had a white spot on my tonsil, but that's about it. Hasn't been an issue since.

A few more days go by, and then all of a sudden one night I got this horrific pain in my lower right abdomen. It was really painful, so I went to bed and hoped it would be gone in the morning. Woke up, it was still there - same place, same intensity, etc. So, I proceeded to look online, and everything I read said "go to the doctor". Therefore, again, I went to the doctor - poor people in that office were definitely thinking "what is wrong with this girl?!"No joke, I was thinking I had appendicitis and was just imagining having to be airlifted to Bangkok for surgery and just the total mess that would've been. Anyways, the doctor did a sonogram of my entire abdomen to check I didn't have kidney stones, infections, blah blah blah. Everything of course, was perfectly fine and there seemed to be no explanation of what was wrong with me. Well, that left only one thing that could have been affecting it, and well, I will spare you the details.....

All in all, being in Cambodia is making me crazy. I have a quick pain or funky situation anywhere in my body and I think I'm diseased or something. Pretty ridiculous, but entertaining. Let's hope the doctor doesn't have to see me for a looong time!



Mad Moto Riding Skills
I noticed something the other day that got me so excited. I was riding on the back of my "Moto Man's" moto and realized I wasn't holding on for deal life. In fact, I wasn't holding on at all! My hands were nice and relaxed, just hanging out on my thighs. For some reason, I felt so cool and like a true Cambodian just casually sitting on something that was swerving in and out of cars, motos, tuk tuks, and bikes. To top it off, today I go on the moto and was actually holding and drinking my coffee as I was being taken to work. That was the ultimate moment of coolness for sure. The one part that makes me stand out from most Cambodians, however, is that fact that I wear a helmet. After 4 weeks of using a moto without one (oops), I finally got one and now I'm sporting a sick helmet that makes me feel so trendy. Jealous, right?


Hybrid Accent
Interestingly enough, as more time goes by, more and more people tell me they're surprised I'm from the States. After hearing me talk for a bit before I mention I'm from the States, people seem to be a little confused and think I'm either from Canada, or somewhere else. They're never too sure, but they are sure that I don't sound like an American. The part that tells me my accent must be mixed up is when multiple AMERICANS tell me they didn't think I was American either. Apparently I have developed a strange hybrid of accents, and don't really sound American anymore. I think it's pretty funny, but I have definitely noticed that I have slight different inflections, and sometimes say words or phrases that aren't typical of an American. I blame all the people I hang out with! All of the people I hang out with speak anything BUT American English, so I'm constantly hearing an Australian, British, or New Zealand accent, which apparently is starting to rub off on me and creating a very strange hybrid of an accent.

I'm sorry fellow Americans, it's definitely not intentional! I've seen it happen to other Americans as well. Two Americans I can think of who I know here have lived in Cambodia for a few years, and no joke, will sound British in one sentence, American in another, Canadian in the next, and then Australian after that. It's a strange concept, but it makes sense when you think about it I suppose. I mean, how and why do any of us have accents? It's because we pick it up from the people around us. I'm just not quite sure this is already happening to me after less than 2 months haha. Maybe I'm secretly wishing I had another accent, so my brain has decided it's going to slowly make me speak with a different accent.  Who knows. I swear I still love the USA. Although you have to forgive me because I was an Aussie for a day this past weekend when watching the Rugby World Cup. Sorry Wallabees...looks like I didn't bring you the luck you needed. ;)

Monday, October 10, 2011

Meat, Yoga, Service, New Apartment

It's crazy to think that I've now been here over a month. So much has happened, so many emotions have been felt, and so many challenges have been faced. It's incredible how fast a month can go by, and even though it's really not that long to be in another country, I feel so comfortable here, like I've been here so much longer than a month. This past week was great and was filled with lots of adventures and many good laughs. Here's a little "taste"......

Meat
I have now officially eaten meat for the FIRST time in over 2 1/2 years!!!! Not quite sure what brought it on, but the house mom's who work at the shelter cooked everyone food and I just couldn't resist or say no. Plus, the fact that it was a fried ball filled with tons of mashed potatoes (one of my favorite things in the world) that I could eat with ketchup...well, let's just say, made it the perfect combination for my first experience with meat again. I could hardly taste the bits of pork, and it reminded me so much of my family's famous tater tot casserole that we always eat with ketchup...YUUMMMMMM!! It was such a lovely experience and I quite enjoyed it, but don't get too excited....the door to eating meat didn't swing wide open, I've just opened it a crack so I can see a little beam of light :) Since then I have had a couple pork dumplings which had mostly veggies in it, and a very small piece of shepherds pie which had tiny pieces of chicken in it. That's it though, and there are ABSOLUTELY NO plans to eat a big chunk of steak or other meat like I see at the market.



Yoga
Went to yoga this past week for the first time with a few friends. I've gone to a couple classes back in the States and have always loved it and felt extremely relaxed after, so I figured it might be a good self-care tool for me. Did a few poses I've never done before, and focused a lot on balance and back stretching which was exactly what I needed. Was sooo relaxing and I actually felt sore the next day which always makes me feel good and as though I had a great workout. It's decided - I'm going to allow myself the pleasure of doing yoga a few times a week and see if it helps me relieve stress and stay relaxed!

Service
This past Friday and Saturday I got to hang out with middle school and high school children to prepare
and go to a day of service in the slums. A group of about 40 youth from the church got together and acted out the creation story for the young Cambodia children living in the slums. It was by far one of the cutest things I've ever seen and it was so much fun. Before the skit, everyone was just running around, teaching the kids how to have a human wheel barrel race, play "Mr. Fox, what time is it?", and just run around and have fun.  The Cambodian children got an absolute kick out of getting a piggy-back ride and trying to attack the other kids. I never would have guessed I'd get so tired from running around and carrying a young girl who ways maybe 20lbs (if that). Uh oh..does that mean I'm getting old?!! Anyways, the service day was tons of fun, and the kids are so stinking cute. I completely understand why Angelina came home with a Cambodian baby ;)




New Apartment
After a long day of playing games and giving piggy-back rides to adorable children, I went back to Central Phnom Penh and signed the lease to my NEW APARTMENT!!! Living in a hotel for a month was plenty, and while it was nice having my room and laundry cleaned for me every day, I've been dying to get out and feel like I actually live here and am not just on vacation. Now, I am the proud renter (with another Fulbright Scholar) of a fully furnished 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom apartment. It's still very close to where I was living before, has a rooftop terrace with an amazing view of the river and the rest of the city, and is close to basically everything I could possibly need or want. I spent my first night in the apartment last night and it was excellent. A lot of sunlight comes in through the windows which is a HUGE step up from the dark dungeon I was living in at the hotel, and my favorite part is that we have a lovely rooster as a neighbor who feels the need to let us know the sun is rising at 6am. Oh, and after the first wake up call, he wants to make sure we know, so he consistently reminds us every 5 minutes. If that's not enough notification that it's time to get the heck out of bed, we then get to hear the screaming and laughing of the kids who have arrived for school (which is the first two floors of the apartment building). The good thing I guess is that I will never have to worry about over-sleeping! The bad thing, however, kids go to school on Saturday.......this should be interesting.